Functions of Dress in the Social Context

1920’s Raccoon Coat for both men and women

State University College Department of Human Ecology

Oneota, NY

Environmental Protection: Fur coats were a guarantee of warmth in the winter, especially after the turn of the century. Raccoon was not as rare and probably more affordable.

Decoration: Natural beauties were ideal in the 1940’s. Makeup was rosy and red with dark accents for the eyes. Intense color, even in the hair was also very popular.

Evening gown with train, 1890 1890’s Men’s clothing store fashion

Artist’s Blawkenberg & Hoefgen

Gender Differentiation: This was apparent during the 1890’s with men taking a more notable stature with neutral pantsuits that were a tailored fit. Women had more of an “s” silhouette as the dresses curved around the bust and hips.

Amish bonnets for women & male attire

Amish Clothes originating in 1525, Switzerland

Group Membership: Since women are forbidden to cut their hair, bonnets are necessary in everyday life of Amish wear. Modern Amish clothes still follow the Old Order Amish ways practiced years ago.

Ceremonial Dress

Samburu People, Africa

Picture taken by Robert Carr-Hartley

Ceremonialism: Here young girls are beautifully dressed for this Lmuget (Ceremony), a ceremony held in honor of warriors who are to pass on to their next age group and become elders.

1967 Parigi

Brigitte Bardot, TV Special Bardot “Harley Davidson”

Sexual Enhancement: Brigitte Bardot had a great sex appeal here with very short black leather sitting on a Harley Davidson motorcycle. Shot in the late 60’s, this image represented the freedom of sexuality at that time.

Textiles

Cairo Hat
Silk fabric quilted in indigo and gold
Cairo Museum of Islamic Art

These caps were commonly worn by men, women, and children of Mamluk, Egypt, and they provided a practical purpose of being protective along with a decorative purpose providing quilted, woven elements representing animals, etc.





Velvet Suit, mid 18th century
France

Men’s and women’s fashions were ornate and overly decorated, and the French were the leaders of all things fashionable at this time. Added rows of buttons were added to the pockets, cuffs, and knee breeches, and large cuffs were turned back almost to the elbow to provide a fashionable and elite appearance.





American Linen, cotton
c. Late 1800’s
Owner, Irene Lewisohn Bequest

This type of dress was intended as an imitation of classical Greek and Roman dress. Basically, a soft, thin chemise of cotton or linen that almost fully revealed the breasts, created an Empire line, which was not universally embraced at the time, but had great appeal visually.





Girdle, 1942
American
Silk, elastic
Gift of Prime Fastener Company, 1943

This early 1940s girdle shows the transition away from more corsetlike garments over the course of the 1930s, and provided elastic for the purpose of comfort, ease of movement, and a smoother line under a dress.





Montego Bay Tweed Wool Coat Dress
Vintage 1958

The lightly fitted bodice, with a simple round collar, long sleeves, a straight skirt, faux buttons to the front and cuffs povide a tapered waist line, sleek look, and elegant style to the 1950's silluette.





John Lennon Suit
Grey wool mohair, c1964
Designed by Douglas Millings

This suit was designed as stage wear for John Lennon along with a batch of identical suits, and the design provided a tight, slender look that accomodated and complemented a masculine silluette of 1960's Britain.





Eco Garments of the Future
Dissolving fashion
Designed by Helen Storey and scientist Tony Ryan.

Increased spending and limited technology for recyclable materials has resulted in heaps of fashionable threads taking up space in landfills, even though clothing is a popular and necessary part of society. This garment has been created from polymer-plastic clothing that slowly dissolves away in the wash. The fashions, displayed and dissolved at the Wonderland exhibitions in Sheffield and Belfast, are more of a statement than a new fad - but intriguing, nonetheless. The exhibit at Sheffield also showcased dissolving plastic bottles that miraculously grow colorful flowers after the plastic disappears under the tap.

2009 Fashion Source Book

Hi! My name is Emily Bowen-Moore. I am looking forward to providing you with this innovative and exciting source book, containing pictures and topics on the world of fashion during the 20th century. I have a strong interest in fashion regarding fabrics and how they complement the human form. As a traditional illustrator, I apply fashion of the times to various drawings and creative works. I have included a few of my personal favorite styles, which include classic, natural looks and fabrics, which provide elements that make the human form, itself, a stunning composition.